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Daisuke Obana recently went to London and decided to run by all of the Save the planet earth shirt in addition I really love this city’s iconic fashion spots, from Savile Row to Worlds End to Portobello Road. “It was really a tourist trip,” he said with a laugh. Still, the designer found fresh inspiration in those staid signposts. Though the idea of reworked British classics has been done to death, Obama executed his version precisely enough that it still came through clearly as N.Hoolywood. A spare presentation unfolded at the BMCC Tribeca Performing Arts Center, a shoebox theater that was left pitch black, save for four central spotlights. To the sounds of Beethoven, models walked out one by one and stood briefly before the audience, a somewhat performative show that referenced the installations Obana first created when he started, 18 seasons ago. Given the twist on British fashion, one saw all the usual tropes: trench coats and schoolboy shorts and pinstripe suits, as well as a punky red plaid, which Obama had pulled from Undercover designer Jun Takahashi’s archive. (A special tag read “Rebel Print by Undercover.”) Obama also created a graphic of pharmaceutical pills, which could have read as a tired reference to punk drug culture, but it actually came from an oddly pleasing spam email that reminded Obana of English artist Damien Hirst’s 1992 “Pharmacy” installation and helped make it his own. Federico Curradi is finding his groove at Rochas. This annoyingly standing-format show (how to type?) was packed full of engaging all-organic garments, soft and flowing, and bohemian. Curradi said he’s trying to make an artist’s wardrobe and who doesn’t want to look like an “artist,” right? Since decamping to Paris from Florence, he’s tried to suffuse himself in Frenchness, and for this collection consulted Ed van der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank and Helena Janeczek’s The Girl With the Leica what a story with which to conjure atmospheric touches to his garments. Inspired by Gerda Taro’s bravery and resolve (if you don’t know it, please Google her story; it’s amazing), he incorporated soft embroidery detailing on weathered military-uniform-inspired trenches and shirting in silk and cotton. Not intentionally, but back when Nylon was a fashionable material for swimwear, I’ve deliberately bought one a size or two too small (since they used to stretch very well!), forgetting that Nylon also becomes a LOT more translucent when wet. Wore that number on a local beach, and had a mortifying experience after a swim. Suffice to say relatives told me that I may as well have been completely naked – so that was the last time that item was worn.
Silhouettes were full, and the Save the planet earth shirt in addition I really love this assembly of pieces used to achieve them—what the designer called a “potpourri”—was eclectically and raffishly combined. “What I really wanted to express was the free soul of the artist, and how he creates his own elegance,” said Curradi backstage. “There were elements mixed from the ’90s, the ’80s, and the ’40s.” The result was a collection that did all the hard work in conjuring an aura of insouciant panache so its wearers won’t have to. Salut! Robert Geller is about to embark on a yearlong sabbatical to Portugal with his family, taking a pause from the New York fashion world for a bit. The connection between Geller’s stepping back from the circus of fashion and his circus-themed Spring 2020 collection isn’t that direct he says he started to think of the circus and Sarah Moon’s hazy photographs on a flight last year but it’s hard not to draw a comparison. Even without the pomp and circumstance of a show, Geller is making some of American fashion’s most show-stopping menswear. As always, his base is his materials and dyes. In the former category, he has incorporated spandex into more of his fabrications, inspired by his ongoing collaboration with Lululemon. Geller’s comfortable, athletic garments have only become more agile. Even more invigorating is his new palette. Rather than labor over an exact shade of sandstone or clay, as he often does, Geller’s ditched his earth tones this season in favor of something more fabulous. The slime green stripes that cut through a nylon coat or the metallic azures that make up a shimmering suit are far more electric than what we’ve come to expect from the earthy designer. But if it’s not evident yet, Geller is ready for a change. The experimentation doesn’t stop there. For the first time in Geller’s career, he is using sequins on tanks, trousers, and shorts. “I wanted to get myself out of my comfort zone,” he explains. It’s a funny way of putting it; the backs of the sequin garments are actually made of nylon ripstop, so they are comfortable to sit in. Even with a fantastical mood haunting this season, amplified by wigs by Chrystoph Marten, Geller can’t help but be pragmatic. Yes it is a bubble, although most people want to believe it is not. If you study the fundamentals like the Income Statements quarterly for the past 12 quarters you will find that fundamentals are lagging for many of this high-flying companies. If a company has negative earnings, as some tech companies that are being speculated do have negative or declining earnings or revenues or both, then this is considered a bubble.